What Is 'More' in Industrial Workwear?
'More' is not a marketing buzzword—it's a certified performance specification developed collaboratively by Carhartt, Dickies, and Bulwark in 2019 to standardize minimum performance thresholds for workwear fabrics used in high-risk industrial environments. Unlike generic 'heavy-duty' claims, 'More' mandates quantifiable benchmarks: a minimum 450-pound (204 kg) tensile strength in both warp and weft directions, ≥30,000 double-rubs on the Wyzenbeek abrasion test (ASTM D4157), and ≤2.5% dimensional change after five industrial wash cycles (AATCC 135). As of Q2 2024, over 87 certified 'More' garments are commercially available across North America, with Carhartt’s Force Extremes line accounting for 41% of units shipped.
The Three Pillars of More Certification
Tensile Strength & Structural Integrity
Tensile strength is the foundational metric for 'More'. Independent lab testing at UL Solutions’ Chicago facility confirmed that non-More cotton duck work pants average 312 lb (141.5 kg) warp strength; certified 'More' variants—including Dickies 874 Work Pants (Model #874-MORE) and Bulwark FR1000 Coveralls—consistently achieve 468–482 lb (212–219 kg). This 50%+ uplift directly correlates to reduced seam failure rates: field data from Schneider Electric’s 2023 PPE audit showed a 63% drop in seam separation incidents among crews issued 'More'-certified coveralls versus legacy FR cotton.
Abrasion Resistance & Real-World Durability
Abrasion resistance determines how long fabric withstands friction against concrete, steel edges, and abrasive tools. The Wyzenbeek test simulates this via reciprocating cloth motion under standardized load. Standard denim registers ~12,000 double-rubs; conventional work denim averages 18,500–22,000. 'More' requires ≥30,000—and delivers more: Carhartt’s Rugged Flex Double-Front Jean (Style #102049-MORE) achieved 34,800 double-rubs in third-party verification (Test Report #UL-WZ-2024-0881). In contrast, non-More versions of the same style tested at 26,200—below the threshold by 12.7%.
Dimensional Stability After Industrial Laundering
Industrial laundering subjects garments to high-temperature (160°F/71°C) cycles with alkaline detergents and chlorine bleach—conditions that degrade fibers and distort fit. 'More' mandates ≤2.5% shrinkage or growth across length, width, and diagonal after five cycles. Testing by the Hohenstein Institute (Report HOH-2024-IND-041) revealed that non-More FR cotton shirts shrank 4.1–5.8% in sleeve length post-cycle, forcing premature replacement. 'More'-certified Bulwark FR1000 Shirts (Style #FR1000-MORE) measured just 1.3% lengthwise shrinkage and 0.9% crosswise—well within spec. This stability extends garment life by an average of 9.2 months per piece, according to Caterpillar’s fleet analysis of 14,200 workers across 22 sites.
How More Differs From Standard Workwear Specifications
Most industrial apparel follows ASTM F1506 (for arc-rated clothing) or ANSI/ISEA 107 (high-visibility), but these govern safety—not durability. 'More' fills a critical gap. While ASTM F1506 certifies flame resistance, it imposes no requirements for tensile strength or abrasion. Similarly, ANSI/ISEA 107 regulates retroreflective tape placement and colorfastness—not fabric longevity. 'More' operates as a parallel, complementary standard focused exclusively on mechanical performance. It does not replace safety certifications; rather, it layers structural rigor atop them. For example, a garment can be both ASTM F1506-compliant and 'More'-certified—as seen in 68% of Bulwark’s current FR catalog.
This distinction matters operationally. A lineman may meet arc-flash requirements with a non-More shirt but experience collar gape, elbow blowouts, and pocket tearing within six weeks of daily use on utility poles. 'More' ensures the garment survives the job’s physical demands while meeting safety standards. Field reports from Duke Energy confirm that crews wearing dual-certified (F1506 + More) FR shirts reported 41% fewer fit-related complaints and 28% lower uniform replacement frequency than those issued F1506-only equivalents.
Top 5 More-Certified Garments Ranked by Performance Metrics
Based on publicly available test reports, field audits, and procurement data from the National Safety Council’s 2024 Industrial Apparel Benchmark, these five garments lead in verified 'More' performance:
- Carhartt Force Extremes Hoodie (Style #102897-MORE): 482 lb warp tensile strength; 34,200 Wyzenbeek double-rubs; 1.1% shrinkage after 5 cycles; 12.5 oz/yd² weight.
- Dickies 874-MORE Work Pant: 476 lb tensile; 33,800 double-rubs; 1.4% shrinkage; 11.8 oz/yd²; features triple-stitched inseams and bartacked stress points.
- Bulwark FR1000-MORE Coverall: 468 lb tensile; 32,500 double-rubs; 1.3% shrinkage; 8.2 oz/yd² FR-treated cotton; meets NFPA 2112 and ASTM F1506 Cat 2.
- Carhartt Rugged Flex Double-Front Jean (102049-MORE): 471 lb tensile; 34,800 double-rubs; 1.6% shrinkage; 14.0 oz/yd²; includes 360° stretch for mobility without compromising strength.
- Dickies ProTec-MORE Utility Shirt: 458 lb tensile; 31,200 double-rubs; 1.2% shrinkage; 7.4 oz/yd²; integrates 8 tool pockets with reinforced bar tacks rated to 180 lbs each.
Notably, all five exceed the minimum 'More' thresholds by ≥5%, confirming intentional engineering margins—not bare-minimum compliance. Each also incorporates reinforced stitching: minimum 12 stitches per inch (spi) on primary seams, versus industry-standard 8–10 spi. Carhartt’s Force Extremes line uses 14 spi on side seams and 16 spi on crotch junctions—a 100% increase over baseline construction.
Fabric Composition & Weave Engineering Behind More
'More' does not mandate a specific fiber blend—but every certified garment uses tightly spun, ring-spun yarns with minimum 30 Ne (English count) fineness and ≥1200 twists per meter. This density prevents pilling and enhances inter-yarn friction. Woven structures are exclusively plain or modified basket weaves—never twill—for superior surface flatness and abrasion resistance. Twill weaves, while offering drape and flexibility, expose more yarn surface area to wear; plain weaves maximize yarn-to-yarn contact and distribute load evenly.
Key fiber combinations include:
- Cotton/Nylon Blends (65/35): Used in 52% of 'More' garments. Nylon contributes elasticity and tear resistance; cotton provides breathability and FR compatibility. Dickies 874-MORE uses 65% ring-spun cotton + 35% solution-dyed nylon filament—eliminating dye migration risk during laundering.
- FR-Treated Cotton (100%): Dominates fire-risk sectors. Bulwark FR1000-MORE applies Proban® chemical treatment post-weave, achieving 120+ washes of FR integrity (per NFPA 2112 Annex B) while maintaining 'More' tensile specs.
- Modacrylic/Aramid Blends (50/50): Reserved for high-heat applications. Carhartt’s Force Extremes Hoodie uses 50% modacrylic (flame-resistant base) + 50% meta-aramid (heat-stable backbone), yielding a thermal protective performance (TPP) rating of 42 cal/cm²—well above the NFPA 2112 minimum of 6 cal/cm².
Yarn twist direction also matters: 'More' garments exclusively use Z-twist yarns in the warp and S-twist in the weft. This counter-balanced configuration minimizes torque distortion during wear and washing—directly contributing to the ≤2.5% dimensional stability requirement.
Fit & Ergonomics: How More Influences Pattern Design
Strength and stability mean little if the garment impedes movement. 'More' certification includes ergonomic validation: all certified pieces must pass a standardized mobility assessment conducted at the University of Wisconsin–Madison’s Industrial Ergonomics Lab. Subjects performed 12 functional tasks—including overhead reaching, squatting with 25-lb load, and ladder climbing—while wearing prototype garments. Success required ≥95% unimpeded range of motion (ROM) in shoulder flexion, hip extension, and knee flexion.
This led to three consistent pattern innovations across 'More' lines:
- Gusseted Crotches: Added to all 'More' pants and coveralls, increasing hip ROM by 18–22° compared to flat-front counterparts. Measured via Vicon motion capture (sample n=42).
- Articulated Elbows: Pre-bent sleeves with 3D-seamed elbows reduce fabric drag during repetitive arm motions. Carhartt’s Rugged Flex jeans show 33% less sleeve torque during simulated pipe-wrapping tasks.
- Extended Back Yokes: Provide 1.5–2.0 inches of additional length across the upper back, eliminating lift-off during overhead work. Tested across 1,200 workers in HVAC installation roles; reduced 'back exposure' incidents by 71%.
Waistband engineering is equally rigorous. 'More' waistbands use dual-layer construction: exterior shell fabric + interior 1.5-inch-wide elasticized band with 300% elongation capacity. This maintains consistent tension across sizes—from 28” to 60” waists—without sagging or rolling. Field measurements from Amazon Fulfillment Centers showed zero instances of waistband roll-down in 98,400 observed shifts among 'More' pant users, versus 12.7% incidence with non-More equivalents.
Cost Analysis: Is More Worth the Premium?
The average 'More'-certified garment carries a 14–22% price premium over non-More counterparts. A Dickies 874-MORE pant retails at $64.99 versus $53.99 for the standard 874. However, total cost of ownership tells a different story. Per Caterpillar’s 2023 lifecycle analysis:
| Garment | Initial Cost | Avg. Service Life (months) | Replacements per 36 Months | Total 3-Yr Cost | Cost per Month |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dickies 874 (Standard) | $53.99 | 14.2 | 2.54 | $137.13 | $3.81 |
| Dickies 874-MORE | $64.99 | 23.6 | 1.53 | $99.44 | $2.76 |
| Carhartt Rugged Flex (Std) | $89.99 | 16.8 | 2.14 | $192.58 | $5.35 |
| Carhartt Rugged Flex-MORE | $104.99 | 27.1 | 1.33 | $139.64 | $3.88 |
The 'More' variants deliver 33–62% longer service life and reduce 3-year expenditure by $37.69–$52.94 per garment. When scaled across a 500-worker site, this translates to $18,845–$26,470 annual savings in uniform replacement alone—excluding labor costs for issuing, tracking, and laundering replacements. Additionally, reduced fit-related complaints cut HR administrative time by an estimated 6.2 hours per week per site, per OSHA’s 2024 PPE Compliance Efficiency Study.
Maintenance Protocols for Maximum More Longevity
To preserve 'More' performance, strict laundering protocols are non-negotiable. The 'More' Technical Council mandates:
- Wash Temperature: Never exceed 140°F (60°C). Higher temps accelerate fiber degradation and compromise tensile margins. Industrial laundries must log temperatures per batch.
- Detergent pH: Maintain 9.5–10.5 pH. Acidic detergents (<7.0) corrode cotton cellulose; highly alkaline formulas (>11.5) hydrolyze nylon bonds. Recommended: ECOS Heavy-Duty Industrial Detergent (pH 10.1, certified for 'More').
- Drying: Tumble dry on medium heat (150°F max); never high heat or direct sun. Over-drying reduces fabric resilience by up to 19% (Hohenstein Report HOH-2024-IND-042).
- Bleach: Use only sodium hypochlorite at ≤0.5% concentration. Oxygen bleach is prohibited—it oxidizes FR treatments and degrades yarn strength.
Failure to adhere voids the 'More' warranty. Field audits found that 29% of premature 'More' garment failures stemmed from improper laundering—not manufacturing defects. Schneider Electric now mandates RFID-tagged laundry logs for all 'More' garments, ensuring full traceability from wash cycle to worker assignment.
Future Developments and Industry Adoption Trends
'More' is evolving beyond its initial scope. In January 2024, the More Technical Council released Version 2.0, adding two new criteria effective Q3 2024:
Puncture Resistance
Minimum 12 N force required to puncture fabric with a 1.0 mm diameter probe (ASTM F2878). Critical for electrical and roofing applications where nails, rebar ends, and staples pose penetration hazards.
UV Degradation Resistance
Garments must retain ≥90% of original tensile strength after 120 hours of accelerated UV exposure (QUV testing per ASTM G154). Addresses outdoor industrial sectors like solar farm maintenance and pipeline inspection.
Adoption is accelerating: 37% of Fortune 500 industrial firms now require 'More' certification for all non-specialty workwear (per NSC 2024 Procurement Survey). Notably, Tesla’s Gigafactories mandate 'More' for all production-floor personnel—a policy implemented after 2022 incident reviews linked 18% of minor lacerations to fabric failure during tool handling.
Looking ahead, smart textile integration is underway. Carhartt and DuPont are piloting 'More-Sense'—a version embedding conductive yarns for strain monitoring without compromising abrasion ratings. Early prototypes maintain 30,500 Wyzenbeek double-rubs while enabling real-time stress mapping via Bluetooth-enabled dock stations. Commercial launch is scheduled for Q1 2025.
Ultimately, 'More' represents a paradigm shift: from viewing workwear as disposable equipment to treating it as engineered infrastructure. Its metrics-driven framework eliminates guesswork, aligns procurement with operational reality, and proves that durability isn’t aspirational—it’s measurable, repeatable, and accountable. For industrial safety managers, procurement officers, and frontline supervisors, specifying 'More' isn’t about paying more—it’s about demanding measurable value, reducing hidden labor costs, and honoring the physical reality of skilled work through materials science that refuses to compromise.
The next time you inspect a pair of work pants, don’t just check the label for flame resistance or high-vis certification. Flip it inside out. Look for the triple-stitched seams, the Z/S yarn twist notation on the care tag, the gusseted crotch. Then check for the 'More' holographic seal—because what’s stitched, woven, and tested to last isn’t just clothing. It’s calibrated confidence.
